Europe's highest peak · 5,642 m
Elbrus West-to-South Traverse
Our hardest Elbrus route: up the undeveloped western slope to the 5,642 m West summit, on to the East summit (5,621 m) and down the South side.
- Duration
- 10 days
- Max altitude
- 5,642 m
- Difficulty
- Demanding
- Group size
- Runs from 2 people · 1 guide per 2 climbers
- Region
- Elbrus
From€2,220/ person
Next date
26 Jun
- 4.9 traveller rating
- 95% summit success
- No payment to book
Overview
About this tour
This is the most demanding Elbrus route in our line-up and one of the most beautiful, wild and impressive ways to climb the highest peak of Russia and Europe. It is a programme for experienced climbers only: people who have already climbed Elbrus with us by other routes without using a snowcat, or who have a successful record above 5,000 m. Good fitness is not enough — you need to know how your body handles great altitude and long effort.
The heart of the route is a full crossing of the Elbrus massif from west to south. We climb the undeveloped western slope to the West summit (5,642 m), cross the saddle and, if weather, time and the group's condition allow, continue to the East summit (5,621 m) before descending the South side. The East summit is an extra stage of the traverse, and the decision to continue is taken by the guide.
Expect several days of autonomous work on glaciers and snow-and-ice slopes, rucksacks of 25 kg or more and long hours above 4,000 m. Only climbers who have tolerated altitude well in the past and have not had serious altitude sickness are accepted. With one guide for every two participants, a professional film of your climb and two full reserve days, this is the route for those for whom an ordinary Elbrus ascent is no longer enough. It runs from just two participants.
- Cross the whole Elbrus massif from west to south, over the West summit (5,642 m) and — conditions permitting — the East summit (5,621 m)
- Climb the undeveloped western slope, away from the lifts and crowds
- Autonomous camps up the glaciers and snow-and-ice slopes to an assault camp at 4,540 m
- 1 guide per 2 climbers and a professional film of your ascent
- Two full reserve days, with the go/no-go decision taken by the lead guide
- Cable-car descent to Azau included
Day by day
Itinerary
Weather may change the order of days; your guide always has a reserve plan.
- Day1
Briefing and drive to Dzhily-Su
2,560 mArrive the day before: we meet you individually at Mineralnye Vody airport and the whole group gathers at our Pyatigorsk office for introductions, gear check and issue, and paperwork. On day 1 the guide gives a detailed briefing on the route, the features of the western slope and safety, and checks your kit once more. Then an off-road vehicle takes us 125 km to Karachay Dzhily-Su, where we pitch the first tent camp near the narzan springs at 2,560 m. No heavy effort today: we rest after the road and begin adapting to altitude.
- Day2
First acclimatisation outing
3,348 mActive acclimatisation begins. We climb light to the Koltsevoy pass at about 3,348 m (9 km there and back, around 700 m of ascent), with views of the western slopes of Elbrus, the Kyukyurtlyu rock and the surrounding peaks, and a small high-mountain lake with water at about +7 °C. After time at the top we return to camp in Dzhily-Su.
- Day3
Start of the climb: to the Utyug rocks
3,500 mThe climb proper begins. We break camp, share out the group gear and set off with full rucksacks, leaving the green part of the route behind for the harsh high-mountain zone of the western slope. We walk 5.5 km to the Utyug ("Iron") rocks and pitch the next camp at about 3,500 m. From here the autonomous part of the expedition begins: glaciers, snow-and-ice terrain and a step-by-step carry of camps ever higher up the western slope.
- Day4
Move to the high camp
3,910 mWe keep climbing the western slope. The distance is short (1.1 km) but the going is much harder: the terrain steepens, the altitude begins to tell and everyone still carries all their gear. We pitch the next camp at 3,910 m, then rest and prepare for the most serious high-altitude part of the route.
Comfort
Accommodation & meals
Expedition tents on the western slope
Camps at Dzhily-Su (2,560 m), below the Utyug rocks (about 3,500 m), at 3,910 m and at the assault camp (4,540 m), all in expedition tents (one tent per 2–4 people). Bring or rent a −10 °C sleeping bag and a mat. Accommodation in Pyatigorsk is not included.
Fallback after the traverse
If the cable car has closed or the weather stops us descending on summit day, we overnight in a high-altitude hut or in tents on the South side.
Meals
Food is not part of the price: the expedition food package (≈ €200) is booked separately, and you carry your share with the group's gear and cook on the shared gas system.
Price details
What's included
Included
- Pre-trip consultations with our managers on the programme, gear and clothing
- Access to an online preparation channel with a training plan and your guide's advice
- Professional mountain guides, 1 per 2 climbers
- Professional filming of your climb
- All group transfers on the programme; individual airport pick-up and transfer back to the airport
- A place in a tent for the whole trip (one tent per 2–4 people)
- National park entrance fees
- Safety equipment and procedures: satellite phone, radios, GPS navigator, first-aid kit and registration with the emergency services
- Oxygen equipment for altitude-sickness emergencies, doctor contact by satellite or mobile phone and a pulse oximeter with daily checks
- Shared expedition gear: ropes, gas, a shovel and the gas cooking system
- Cable-car descent on Elbrus
- Elbrus Expert certificate, branded long-sleeve top, commemorative medal, official FAR badge and climber's logbook entry (if you summit)
- Luggage storage at our office during the trip
Not included
- Travel to and from Pyatigorsk
- Expedition food package (≈ €200)
- Personal equipment and clothing (rental available)
- Mountaineering insurance (compulsory)
- Vehicle descent to Azau if the cable car is closed (charged separately, minus the cable-car price)
- Accommodation in Pyatigorsk
Dates & prices
Choose your date
Small international groups. Booking is free — we confirm details with you before any payment.
26 Jun – 5 Jul 2027
10 days
Regular price€2,570Now€2,220per personGuidesAvailableBe the first
Need other dates or a private group? — we organise departures on request.
Packing list
Required equipment
What to bring for this programme. Most technical items can be rented from us — no need to fly with them.
Equipment
- Mountaineering cramponsRent
- Large rucksack, 85–120 L, with rain coverRent
- Jumar (ascender)Rent
- Descender (belay device)Rent
- Harness, 5 carabiners, self-belay leashes and 1.5 m cordRent
- HeadlampRent
- Sleeping bag, comfort rating −10 °CRent
- Sleeping matRent
- Mountain glassesRent
- Ski gogglesRent
- Insulated overbootsRent
- Thermos, 1 LRent
- Expedition tentRent
Clothing
- Mountaineering bootsRent
- Warm down or synthetic jacket with a hood that fits over a helmet, rated for winter and high altitude (if down: at least 250–300 g of quality down, Fill Power 700+ preferred)Rent
- Warm expedition mittensRent
- Climbing trousers (softshell recommended)Rent
- Fleece top (Polartec 200)
- Light trousers or shorts
- Warm fleece hat that fits under a helmet
- Thin Polartec gloves
- Trekking socks, 2–3 pairs
- Thin socks, 3 pairs
- Peaked cap or wide-brimmed hat
- Buff or balaclava
- Synthetic T-shirts, 2
Personal items
- Compression sacks
- Toiletries
- Mug, spoon, bowl and knife
- Sunscreen SPF 50
- Waterproof pouch for documents
- Plastic water bottle
- Power bank
First-aid kit
- Personal first-aid kit: gauze bandage, adhesive tape, antiseptics, anti-allergy medicine, fever and cold remedies, stomach tablets, elastic bandage, haemostatic products and any medication for your own chronic conditions · Contents depend on your own needs and medical advice
RentMandatory equipment and clothing can be rented from our Pyatigorsk office, where we check and issue everything the day before departure. Base layers (items without a rental tag) are not rentable: buy them from us or bring your own.
Your team
Guides on this tour
Certified mountain guides who speak English and lead this route every season.
Reviews
What our travellers say
55 reviews on TripAdvisor
210 reviews on Google- Google
“Комфортный тур на западную вершину Эльбруса с юга с Сергеем Тарасовым. Это был не просто тур, а кинотур! Довольна всем! Организация на высшем уровне. Питание, трансфер, безопасность, аренда снаряжения - понравилось абсолютно всё! Спасибо огромное за эмоции и впечатления!”
ННаиля Филиппова September 2026 - Google
“Пользуюсь услугами компании не первый раз и планирую дальше с ними путешествовать: отличная компания, профессиональные гиды.”
AAleks September 2026 - TripAdvisor
Подъём на Эльбрус! Западная вершина.
“Поднялись с группой на западную вершину Эльбруса! У нас был опытный гид Алексей Сикилинда, который грамотно выждал погоду, и мы успешно взошли на вершину. Были ребята, которые говорили что им всё равно на погоду, ведь они идут с Ксенией Котляр, и пошли на день раньше. Но взойти на вершину у них не вышло, и они вернулись назад. А мы зашли) Спасибо опыту Алексея). Компания была максимально разношёрстная - плотник, доктор, менеджер и торговый представитель. Несмотря на это все нашли общий язык и поддерживали друг друга во время всего тура) Что конечно же положительно повлияло на успех восхождения. В целом о поездке впечатление отличное, всё было хорошо - трансфер, снаряжение, питание. Спасибо компании Эльбрус Эксперт за прекрасный тур!”
ССергей М September 2026
FAQ
Good to know
Who is this route for?
Only experienced climbers: people who have already climbed Elbrus with us by other routes without using a snowcat, or who have a successful record above 5,000 m. You must know how your body copes with great altitude and long effort, and you should not have had serious altitude sickness in the past. This is not a route for a first Elbrus.
Will I definitely climb both summits?
The West summit (5,642 m) is the main goal. The East summit (5,621 m) is an additional part of the traverse: the guide decides whether to continue based on the weather, the time available and the group's condition. Two full reserve days are built in, and the lead guide decides whether to start from the forecast, current conditions and how participants feel.
How do I get to the start?
Fly into Mineralnye Vody (MRV). We meet you individually at the airport and take you to our Pyatigorsk office (Lenin Square 13, Intourist Hotel), 27 km away — about 25 minutes. You can arrive the day before, when the office receives participants from 08:00 to 18:00 for gear checks and rental, or on the morning of day 1 between 08:00 and 10:00. The transfer back to the airport at the end is included.
Where do I stay in Pyatigorsk?
Accommodation in Pyatigorsk is not included. Hostels (roughly €5–10 a night), hotels and apartments are all close to our office, and we can help you find something suitable. Luggage storage at the office while you are on the mountain is included.
How heavy will my rucksack be?
On tent tours you carry your personal kit and a share of the group gear — including tents and food packs — up to the assault camp, so expect around 25 kg or more. Choose a rucksack of 85–90 L (women) or 85–110 L (men).
How do I book, and is there a minimum group size?
The tour runs when a group of at least 2 people is formed. Pay the booking fee (≈ €350) to reserve your place and lock in the price, or pay for the tour in full. The professional film of your climb is included in the price.
The mountain is waiting
Ready for your summit?
From €2,220 per person. Pick a date now — we confirm everything personally, no payment at this step.